So here it is, time for another fairly long bike-packing adventure following the length of the mighty Rhine river. The other getaways I was toying with were either a north south traverse of Iceland on foot or a photography shoot in the Faroe Islands – for both it was a bit too early in the season to stay relatively dry. Clearly this was the pretty low key option!

Just like the 2021 EuroVelo 17 route, this ride known as EuroVelo 15 would begin in the Swiss town of Andermatt and although I’d be an hour hike away from Lake Toma, the actual source of the Rhine, it was still classed as the beginning of the ride. This time the route would head northward to the Hook of Holland instead of following the Rhone River south to the French Mediterranean. It would also be a bit longer in length at 1600kms. Hopefully the month earlier departure and the fact that I was heading north wouldn’t bring on too many stormy days.

Once again I’d be taking the train from Chamonix, arriving in Andermatt around 4pm with plenty of daylight left to begin riding immediately – I was alone for this journey so why not? Andrea had left for the US earlier in the day so my schedule was… well there really wasn’t one!

The terrain was primarily road, consisting of quiet paved pathways, a fair amount of gravel cycling thrown in, and the occasional section of short single track. As expected the majority of the route meandered along the Rhine, sometimes through farmland, often passing through quaint villages and small towns. The big cities were even enjoyable; the likes of Düsseldorf, Duisburg, Cologne, Basel, and Strasbourg, all offering plenty of sightseeing options.

There were plenty of alternate sections, especially after leaving Lake Constance (Bodensee in German). I often switched from the Swiss to the German side of the Rhine, then further north moved back and forth between France and Germany. On the second day I couldn’t turn down hopping across to Liechtenstein for a couple of kilometres!

EuroVelo 15 Day 1: Hospental, CH to Sedrun, CH

Distance: 24.02km, Ascent: 592m, Moving Time: 1h29
Total Distance: 24.02km, Total Ascent: 592m, Total Time: 1h29

The only goal of the day, actually the late afternoon, was to make it up and over the highest point of the entire EV15 ride, the Oberalp Pass. Sitting at an altitude of 2,046m it didn’t feel quite high enough to ensure that the next 1500kms would be primarily downhill to sea level!

Not that it was necessary but I decided to jump off the train in Hospental, a few kilometres short of Andermatt, to get the legs spinning before the 600m ascent. The switchbacked climb was a straightforward 1h15 grind followed by a fun descent. Pity it was all on road as the surrounding area looked like it made for some epic mountain biking.

Within two hours of exiting the train I was knocking back a cold beer at a perfectly located campsite. It had been a very short day, the plan really just to get used to the bike and the loaded packs. Hopefully the following days wouldn’t be quite as hot!

EuroVelo 15 Day 2: Sedrun, CH to Fubach, AT

Distance: 177.89km, Ascent: 1147m, Moving Time: 8h48
Total Distance: 201.91km, Total Ascent: 1,739m, Total Time: 10h17

After an easy partial day 1 it was time to go big! The somewhat ambitious goal was to make it to Germany, specifically Lake Constance, or Bodensee as it’s known locally. I had already scouted out some campsites but had no idea if they were realistic. At least the 7h35 departure would give me a fighting chance!

The route highpoint for me was definitely cycling the Versamerstrasse, an impressive Swiss road that follows high above the Vorderrhein river. Just a few kilometres further at the small village of Reichenau is the meeting point of that river and the Hinterrhein, the two Rhine tributaries – a bit of trivia, but the Vorderrhein is about 76 kms long, more than 5% longer than the Hinterrhein, making it the actual source of the Rhine.

Still plodding on some 8 hours after departing the campsite I switched allegiances, moving from Switzerland to Liechtenstein – the Alte Rheinbrücke (old Rhine) bridge was calling out to be cycled across and although the Rhine was still the Rhine it made the next few kilometres along the opposite bank feel easier. I just hoped that I could hop back across further down!

Turns out I finally ended the day in Austria, a country I hadn’t read as being part of the EV15 – maybe I just went further than I should have! It was indeed a hot and very long day, both in terms of kilometres ridden and time in the saddle, then throw in some short and nasty climbs just to make it interesting. I didn’t quite make it to where I planned but it did allow me options for the next day.

With tired legs and a strong thirst it didn’t take long to devour a couple of beers, soon followed by an invitation to join a friendly German couple for wine – excellent hospitality which I hoped would continue.

EuroVelo 15 Day 3: Fubach, AT to Langwiesen, CH

Distance: 121.35km, Ascent: 501m, Moving Time: 6h18
Total Distance: 323.26km, Total Ascent: 2,240m, Total Time: 16h35

After a great nights sleep and no repercussions from the previous days riding a decision had to be made; would I cycle the long way around Lake Constance through Austria and Germany or take the easier option through Switzerland? My German acquaintances had already recommended the longer option for its better scenery – and so it was, I headed north…

For the first hour my version of the EV15 passed through Austria, then without any fanfare moved into Germany to tackle the 52 kilometres before I’d have to take a ferry across the lake from Meersburg to the city of Konstanz. I could tell it was going to be a good day as soon as I arrived in Lindau, a Bavarian town on the lake with a really scenic old area. I spent far too much time there taking in the beautiful weather and the views.

Then came Friedrichshafen, another cool looking town – fortunately, or unfortunately, I tried not to pay it too much attention and cycled on through in anticipation of Meersburg. I wasn’t disappointed and could see why it was awash with tourists! Most were probably on a daytrip from Konstanz enjoying the colourful buildings and an ample array of restaurants. After purchasing a ferry ticket it was time to grab some lunch and people-watch.

Although the university city of Konstanz also looked rich in scenery and places to visit I felt compelled to move on, instead just admiring the area around the ferry port, grabbing a few photos, and searching for the onward route out of town. The next 40 kilometres or so would follow the Swiss side of the Rhine to where I planned on spending the third night camping.

After setting up camp and to celebrate another day without incident I said to myself… why not jump into the Rhine, seems like a great idea. A little colder than expected but still a fun way to end another day.

EuroVelo 15 Day 4: Langwiesen, CH to Bad Bellingen, DE

Distance: 156.47km, Ascent: 851m, Moving Time: 7h43
Total Distance: 479.73km, Total Ascent: 3,091m, Total Time: 24h18

Today was not looking like a fourth day of ideal riding weather, the overcast skies itching to release moisture! I wasn’t surprised, an angry but brief hailstorm causing a quick hunker down in a patch of stinging nettles under the very narrow eaves of a farmhouse. I somehow knew this wasn’t going to be the last time the weather gods would rain down on this cyclist.

A short 6 kms into the days ride came an early stop, the biggest falls on the Rhine and the most powerful falls in Europe. Funnily enough known as the Rhine Falls, these mediocre looking (at least compared to Victoria and Iguaza) rapids are a popular Swiss tourist attraction, Laufen Castle providing a cool backdrop.

Following the German side of the river for over 5 hours I arrived at the picturesque towns of German and Swiss Laufenburg, the middle of a bridge separating the two making for a well earned lunch spot. A further 85 kms came the longest roofed wooden bridge in Europe – this time connecting the German city of Bad Säckingen with the village Stein in Switzerland. Known in German as Holzbrücke Bad Säckingen the 203.7m bridge was initially built in the late 13th century. The latest version was merely 322 years old but still looked pretty impressive.

Next up came a brief spell through the Swiss city of Basel. It had been 9 hours since leaving camp and the thought of sightseeing just didn’t materialise! Instead I hopped right back into Germany and continued north to a perfect campsite in the thermal town of Bad Bellingen. The weather had been on and off stormy all day but didn’t take away from a nice pool swim.

Time for a rare treat… a schnitzel dinner that I didn’t have to cook for myself. The gloominess continued as it rained on and off throughout the night. I wasn’t excited about tomorrow!

EuroVelo 15 Day 5: Bad Bellingen, DE to Kehl, DE

Distance: 136.76km, Ascent: 228m, Moving Time: 6h14
Total Distance: 616.49km, Total Ascent: 3,319m, Total Time: 30h32

As anticipated I awoke to crap early morning weather, the skies full of rain but none actually falling. Ah, wait for it… time for a breakfast shower. Hopefully the northerly route I’d now be following along the German French border would move me away from these wet systems.

My goal for the day was to end up somewhere close to Strasbourg, the initial thought being to spend a rest day and check out the city. For now I just had to cycle! By mid-morning I arrived in the town of Breisach, the first jumping off point I’d noticed for the popular Rhine river cruises. The town square also made for good people watching, a local bio store providing excellent coffee and food.

Felt like I now had the weather gods on my side as the sun shone down, occasionally interspersed with stormy conditions. Let this continue! Moving north, the river traffic becoming busier by the kilometre; the cycle route took me through lots of scenic green space, passed quarries with their stone laden conveyor belts crossing above, and eventually made its way to my next stop in Kehl. I was now just a short cycle ride to the southeast of Strasbourg.

This town was another of the many river ports, a fleet of boats moored up as their passengers enjoyed the scenery and lavish cruiser lifestyle. For me it was time for good German beer!

The evening was finished off with an uneventful walk into Kehl. The thought of spending a second night hadn’t lasted long. I was now a mere 150 metres above sea level, dropping an additional 75m after the previous days 200m descent.

EuroVelo 15 Day 6: Kehl, DE to Karlsruhe, DE

Distance: 100.96km, Ascent: 200m, Moving Time: 4h41
Total Distance: 717.45km, Total Ascent: 3,519m, Total Time: 35h13

With today being French language day I preferred not to be camping, instead looking to make it a shorter day and grab a hotel in the German city of Karlsruhe. This still meant cycling around 100 kms, switching between the French and German sides of the Rhine at leisure.

First off I thought Strasbourg was worthy of another look, the old town being extremely photogenic from what I remember of a previous visit. So off I went, across the Pont de l’Europe into France assuming the route to the old town would be straightforward – well although it was only 6 kms it wasn’t so easy to navigate in the morning rush hour! I gave up, instead making my way northeast. For most of the initial 35 kms I’d be away from the Rhine, something I’d be getting used to today.

Other than some bushwhacking as I drifted off trail for a while there was nothing too much of interest on the route, the main attractions being in the centre of Karlsruhe. The final 10 kilometres were city cycling; not fun but necessary! It was great to make good ground and find a cheap place to stay in the city. The Arthotel ANA Eden was perfect, centrally located for everything.

After a 90 minute French lesson it was time to go explore… The city was pretty cool, as is fairly typical when there’s a university – lots of bars, restaurants, and a huge palace. Karlsruhe palace was the centrepiece, everything else radiating out from it like a hub with spokes! The palace gardens were awash with people chilling out, enjoying the late afternoon sun. I just sat and people watched for a bit before heading off to devour a yummy salad bowl.

I wasn’t particularly looking forward to the next days 10 kms of cycling through traffic back to the Rhine!

EuroVelo 15 Day 7: Karlsruhe, DE to Rudesheim, DE

Distance: 206.06km, Ascent: 449m, Moving Time: 9h31
Total Distance: 923.51km, Total Ascent: 3,968m, Total Time: 44h44

Today would be a day of firsts; the first time I’d lube the bike in 725 kms and probably the longest distance I’d ever ridden a bike on a single day. The hope was to get beyond Mainz at 175 kms away.

The weather was overcast, then turned into an amazing sunny day. Being Ascension Day in Germany meant the vast majority of people were off work, a time to be outside enjoying the weather and lots of beer! Not as much cycling was along the river as usual but still I spent a lot of time on what would usually be quiet trails – not today. The holiday made for lots of adhoc gatherings, lots of people pulling wooden barrows with music and ample alcohol.

It also seemed like everyone who owned a bicycle was out following the Rhine with me, some making it a workout, and some making a smart decision on this day of festivities!

At least six big cruisers docked at various river ports today. The further I head north the busier the river is getting, both commercially and touristic. Today I spent some time in the historic city of Speyer, one of Germany’s oldest cities, mostly an excuse to get off the bike but also to admire the buildings and grab a coffee.

Eventually, some 206 kms after starting I arrived at Rüdesheim am Rhein, a scenic little town in German wine country – there was no plan to ride further!

This was also the home of Drosselgasse. I’d discover the quaint lane lined with half-timbered houses as souvenir shops, artisan specialty shops and wine taverns during my evening walk.

EuroVelo 15 Day 8: Rudesheim, DE to Bad Honningen, DE

Distance: 108.99km, Ascent: 354m, Moving Time: 5h47
Total Distance: 1032.50km, Total Ascent: 4,322m, Total Time: 50h31

Another relatively short distance day, well deserved after the big push yesterday! The day was also the beginning of a windy spell, and unfortunately for me the wind was coming right out of the northwest, the direction I was heading, even being as cheeky as to switch direction to ensure I didn’t escape. The coming days were going to be hard work! As well as wind there was rain to contend with.

Wind and being caught in rain was not my idea of fun. At least the sun would come out midway through the afternoon. The day was a very flat one, hovering somewhere between 65-100m above sea level – I felt like the Netherlands had already arrived.

Right at the beginning of the day I would take the first of many ferries, this one whisking myself and the trusty bike across the Rhine to Bingen. I’d then follow the left bank of the river past Koblenz and switch back at Bendorf all the way to campsite number eight.

The Roman city of Koblenz was the highlight of the day, famous for its location on the banks of both the Rhine and Mosel rivers. This popular attraction is known as Deutsches Eck, or German Corner. As well as this the touristy city is known for its cable car, the Electoral Palace, a basilica and some nearby fortresses.

Todays campsite sat right next to thermal baths and on the river, a location I couldn’t have been happier with. The evening was a typical one; a beer or two with a salad and one of the carefully prepared dehydrated meals I was carrying. The river was becoming ever busier with more barges shuttling everything from containers to gravel, sand, recycling and fuel – watching the pompous looking river cruisers and these somewhat overladen barges seeming like they could sink at any minute often kept me occupied as I cycled.

EuroVelo 15 Day 9: Bad Honningen, DE to Meerbusch, DE

Distance: 156.83km, Ascent: 575m, Moving Time: 8h21
Total Distance: 1189.33km, Total Ascent: 4,897m, Total Time: 58h52

In short, a return to a bigger distance and the continuation of yesterday’s ‘in-my-face’ wind! Considering the distance was just shy of 157kms the total days ascent came in at a lowly 575m, an ascent that is typically covered in under 10kms at home in Chamonix. Today was going to be spent entirely in the Rhine-Ruhr region, a heavily populated and industrious area along the Rhine. I’d have three cities to potentially explore; Bonn, Cologne (Koln), and Dusseldorf, promising to offer more than enough sights to keep my camera busy.

Almost to Bonn, with 30 kilometres under my belt I briefly switched from the east to the west side of the Rhine to do some sightseeing. Bonn offers plenty to see, its biggest draw being that it is the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven. Alongside visiting his original 1770 home, now a museum, the cobblestone streets lead off to amongst other places; its old city hall situated in the Market Square, the basilica located in Munster Square, and Poppelsdorf Palace. My time was limited and it wasn’t long before the pedals were once again turning and I continued on north.

Barely moving away from the rivers bank the next significant stop was Cologne, some 80 kilometres since beginning the day. Once again I would cross from the east of the river to the west just to make the detour into town. Where Bonn was small and easy to make a quick tour of, Cologne comes in as Germanys fourth largest city. As long as I had enough time to see the huge gothic cathedral, a Unesco World Heritage Site and the worlds tallest cathedral, I’d have to be content! And so it was, a quick gander at the cathedral, the impressive Hohenzollern Bridge (the busiest rail bridge in Europe), and within 5 kilometres I was back across the Rhine.

The final city I thought worthy of a visit was Dusseldorf. Obvious from afar with its Rhine Tower dominating the skyline I barely felt like I had left one city and I was in another – this area was definitely the heart of Germany industry. Situated right on the river and not requiring a bridge crossing I pretty much just followed the river cycle path, passing groups of partygoers boarding their Saturday early evening boat trips. Watching their shenanigans was my only insight into Dusseldorf! I still had nowhere to stay, nothing to eat, and no intention of taking a hotel in the city.

Eventually I found the only campsite that wasn’t too far off the trail, requiring only a short diversion to the other side of the Rhine. I was very lucky in that their small Tropicana Beach Bar was just about still open. A cold German beer and food made me a very happy cyclist! Their indoor cook area was the perfect place to chat with other bicycle tourers, and if the weather turned bad overnight, an ideal breakfast venue.

EuroVelo 15 Day 10: Meerbusch, DE to Kekerdom, NL

Distance: 137.31km, Ascent: 371m, Moving Time: 6h44
Total Distance: 1326.64km, Total Ascent: 5,268m, Total Time: 65h36

Whilst the majority of the day was spent in Germany the latter part finally took me into the Netherlands. Time for canals and windmills!

As feared I woke to rain, the expected forecast for the entire day. With that and the still windy conditions it wasn’t going to be a fun one. At least breakfast was under cover and a lull allowed camp to be packed away. I said goodbye to the lucky couple cycling south, envious of the wind assistance they were getting. My departure was gloomy and cool, an exciting anticipation about covering the 26kms to Duisburg and checking out the worlds biggest inland port driving me forward. I had read about the inner harbour and its abundance of restaurants and bistros – it was already close to mid-morning break in my mind!

Unfortunately it was a Sunday, I had arrived in the rain, or maybe I hadn’t arrived at all as there was no sign of any trendy waterfront area – there was waterfront alright, lots and lots of it, but only offices and cranes occupied the space. The rain kept me from hunting down a place to refuel, instead keeping me hunkered down under the eaves of a building! Oh well, eventually it was time to move on…

For the next fifty or so kilometres I seemed to spend more time away from the Rhine, cycling through green space and small towns. This was ideal, the towns providing cover when the intermittent rain arrived. Fortunately it hadn’t so far been anything other than cooling drizzle and each town was an excuse to stop, grab a coffee or/ and a snack and people-watch. I was getting really sick of the wind though, continually coming at me out of the northwest, my direction!

After brief stops in the scenic towns of Xanten to buy food for dinner and see my first windmill in Germany, then further on at Kalkar to take in its empty Marktplatz square, I arrived in Kleve. Ten kilometres more cycling would bring me to the final country of EuroVelo 15, the Netherlands. I was super excited about getting there!

Crossing the border at Millingen aan de Rijn, and with no appealing campground I headed to a somewhat open looking B&B – luck was on my side; the owner didn’t offer a room but said I could put my tent up in the back garden and come right on in for dinner and beers. Excellent Dutch hospitality.

EuroVelo 15 Day 11: Kekerdom, NL to Sleeuwijk, NL

Distance: 155.7km, Ascent: 542m, Moving Time: 8h01
Total Distance: 1482.34km, Total Ascent: 5,810m, Total Time: 73h37

After an excellent nights sleep and my usual coffee and breakfast it was time for an early start on this, the penultimate day of EuroVelo 15. Whilst I was excited about the significant reduction in wind and discovering the Dutch countryside I hadn’t considered that crossing the canals and waterways would come to be a bit of a pain in the ass! The first of the days three, Bijlandsch Kanaal, had a schedule that was easily discoverable online, and with the first ferry at 8am wasn’t a problem.

The chill in the air kept me moving, sometimes in totally the wrong direction, as was realised after getting off the first ferry. Luckily only a couple of kilometres passed! I was now following the northern tributary of the Rhine (Nederrijn) en route to the city of Arnhem. This would later become the Lek, the point at which I would turn south and pick up the Linge, the Waal, and eventually begin cycling along the Oude Maas to Rotterdam. The Dutch Rhine is a labyrinth of waterways becoming intertwined with each other, all making their way to the North Sea.

Moving away from the industry of Germany was just what was needed, and now instead of huge chimneys I had the pleasure of impeccably renovated windmills and lots of charming countryside. It was understandable why the Dutch have such a strong cycling culture. The town of Gorinchem eventually arrived, my tally for the day coming in at another 155kms with a surprising 540m of elevation gain.

After searching for far too long for a cheap hotel in the town an additional 6kms of cycling would see my arrival at the pretty cool campground of Camping De La Rue. The undercover dining area provided the perfect place to divulge in the feast from the nearby supermarket!

Today I had to take 3 ferry crossings, the first across the Bijlandsch Kanaal costing €2, the second from Loo to Huissen costing €1,10, and the final ferry from Wijk bij Duurstede to Rijswijk costing €0,90

EuroVelo 15 Day 12: Sleeuwijk, NL to Hoek van Holland, NL

Distance: 118.35km, Ascent: 282m, Moving Time: 5h47
Total Distance: 1600.69km, Total Ascent: 6,092m, Total Time: 79h24

The final day always has to come around, a day of a little sadness but also joy. Initially I was planning on turning around at the Hook of Holland and riding back into France following the river Meuse on EuroVelo 19 – think mentally I already canned that idea!

This wasn’t going to be a long day, either in distance or time, just a day of cycle lanes, perfect weather and really cool and varied scenery. Once again there were ferry crossings, four in total, and a couple that had me waiting around for almost an hour on each occasion. The first one really took me by surprise! Luckily I hadn’t broken camp until after 8am, with no idea that 20kms later the tiny slither of water shown on a map would not have a bridge, just a tied up micro-ferry. I really hoped that Tuesday wasn’t a day off or for some reason, a late start.

Good for me that things happen on time in the Netherlands. Just before 10am a guy comes strolling over, key in hand, and unlocks the cabin door. Now I hoped that the 80c I had in change would suffice! Before long the far shore arrived and it was time to start pedalling once again. A short time later the gem of De Biesbosch National Park was reached, an amazing freshwater delta rich in bird life. I couldn’t resist stopping for a coffee and snack to relax and take in the views. Continuing on, the route followed various canals until the next highlight, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kinderdijk – its water management network featuring 19 windmills and 3 pumping stations, dikes and reservoirs to control flooding in the low-lying land. Very worthy of another coffee stop!

Now on the Nieuwe Maas (New Meuse), becoming ever wider as it covered the next 15kms to the city of Rotterdam, the largest seaport in Europe. Windmills were replaced with countless cranes, barges replaced with monster container ships. It was clear the North Sea was becoming ever closer. Rotterdam seemed to go on forever – I was thankful for the vast array of cycling lanes as kilometre after kilometre ticked by.

Thankfully the final 20kms moved away from the built up city, instead following the wide river, its relentless spurs housing shipping terminals stacked to the sky with containers. Tugs dwarfed by fully loaded cargo ships tried to race me to the Hook of Holland, my legs seemingly still full of energy to prevent that from happening. This finale was fun… and then came the signage declaring the Hoek van Holland. It was time to sit and devour a portion of fish and chips!

So here it was, the end, just me and my bike at the Hook of Holland some 1600 kilometres and twelve days after leaving Andermatt, Switzerland. Was it fun? yes; did the weather mostly cooperate? yes; was it nice to do this ride alone? yes and no – yes I could ride my own pace and distance, and no because it’s always nice to share experiences, new countries, and the scenery with my wife!

The ferry crossings on this final day were… the €1 trip across the Steurgat on the smallest ferry I’d ever seen, followed by the €1 crossing of Nieuwe Merwede on the edge of Biesbosch. Then came a couple of waterbuses… from Merwekade to Veerdam on line 22, and from Kinderdijk, Molenkade to Ridderkerk, De Schans, costing €2.25 and €2 respectively.

Gear List