Not sure how we initially heard about La Vélodyssée cycle route but for various reasons it made total sense for us. I’d be recovering from hip surgery and neither of us had ever been to the west coast of France. The temperatures in early September would be perfect and the main tourist season was over. It would also be the first time I’d bike-packed with the new Canyon Grizl gravel bike.
There was good reason we hadn’t hit this part of France before; the distance from home! It was around 900 kms and we really couldn’t get any further from Chamonix whilst staying in France. Good job we have friends to visit en route.
I was hoping that we could cover the predominantly flat 1300 km route in 10 days but as usual I was probably being slightly optimistic. So taking a step back a 13 day ride was more suitable – typically we wouldn’t take a rest day but after the first week Andrea would be working from 2pm so the distances would be less.
- Stage 1: Roscoff > Morlaix (day 1)
- Stage 2: Morlaix > Carhaix (day 1)
- Stage 3: Carhaix-Plouguer / Rostrenen (day 1)
- Stage 4: Rostrenen / Mûr-de-Bretagne (day 2)
- Stage 5: Mûr-de-Bretagne / Pontivy (day 2)
- Stage 6: Pontivy / Josselin (day 2)
- Stage 7: Josselin / Peillac (day 3)
- Stage 8: Peillac / Redon (day 3)
- Stage 9: Redon / Blain (day 3)
- Stage 10: Blain / Nort-sur-Erdre (day 4)
- Stage 11: Nort-sur-Erdre / Nantes (day 4)
- Stage 12: Nantes / Le Pellerin (day 4)
- Stage 13: Le Pellerin / St-Brevin-les-Pins (day 4)
- Stage 14: St-Brevin-les-Pins / Pornic (day 5)
- Stage 15: Pornic / Bouin (day 5)
- Stage 16 Bouin / La Barre de Monts – Fromentine (day 5):
- Stage 17 La Barre de Monts – Fromentine / St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie (day 6):
- Stage 18 St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie / Les Sables d’Olonne (day 6):
- Stage 19 Les Sables d’Olonne / La Tranche-sur-Mer (day 6):
- Stage 20 La Tranche-sur-Mer / Marans (day 7):
- Stage 21 Marans / La Rochelle (day 7):
- Stage 22 La Rochelle / Rochefort (day 8):
- Stage 23 Rochefort / Marennes (day 8):
- Stage 24 Marennes / Royan (day 8):
- Stage 25 Royan / Montalivet-les-Bains (alt day 9 to Blaye):
- Stage 26 Montalivet-les-Bains / Hourtin-Plage (alt day 9 to Blaye):
- Stage 27 Hourtin-Plage / Lacanau-Océan (alt day 9 to Blaye):
- Stage 28 Lacanau-Océan / Lège-Cap-Ferret (alt day 10 to Bordeaux):
- Stage 29 Lège-Cap-Ferret / Arcachon (alt day 10 to Bordeaux):
- Stage 30 Arcachon / Biscarrosse-plage (day 11):
- Stage 31 Biscarrosse-plage / Parentis-en-Born (day 11):
- Stage 32 Parentis-en-Born / Mimizan-Plage (day 12):
- Stage 33 Mimizan-Plage / Léon (day 12):
- Stage 34 Léon / Capbreton (day 13):
- Stage 35 Capbreton / Bayonne (day 13):
- Stage 36 Bayonne / Biarritz (day 13):
- Stage 37 Biarritz / Saint-Jean-de-Luz (day 14):
- Stage 38 Saint-Jean-de-Luz / Hendaye-Plage (day 14):
Camping
Sleeping bags
Sleeping bag liners
Sleeping mats
Pillows
Towels
Headlamps
Coffee aeropress/ filters
Stove/ gas canister
Pans
Bowls
Mugs
Spoons
Knife
Clothing Wayne
Down jacket
Cycling bib/ jersey x2
Cycling gloves
Floppy cap
Long sleeved top
Tee-shirt
Boxer shorts x3
Socks x2
Food
Breakfasts x2 days
Snacks: energy bars
Dinners x2 each
Personal
Toothbrush & toothpaste
Soap
Power brick
Camera and lens
Charging cables
Reading glasses
Sunglasses
Clothing Andrea
Rain jacket
Insulated jacket
Midlayer jacket
Sun hat
Baseball cap
Tights x2
Long sleeved tops x2
Tee-shirt x3
Socks x3
Gloves
Sport bras x2
Underwear x8
Bike
Lock
Rear lights
Multitool
Puncture repair kit
Tyre levers
Pump
Tube
Lube
Final Thoughts
The south had many kilometres of rocky sections but nothing compared to north of Vizzavona. Overall there wasn’t too much terrain that wasn’t rocky; descents often loose slippery-as-ice scree, lots of big blocks to clamber over, some chains for assistance, a few alternate sections, and plenty of exposure.
Weather almost perfect, sometimes a bit too hot, sometimes breezy when we needed it, occasionally overcast, again when we needed it. Enough tree covered terrain for shade. First and final days by far the hottest, coinciding with lower altitudes and the time of day!
Would have been nice to switch refuges around a bit but our schedule wouldn’t allow it. Prati maybe preferred over Paliri, the sheepfolds of I Croci had better vibe than Bergeries de Bassetta (although we were the only guests!), and Col de Verde accommodation looked very inviting. Bivouac Alzarella in Vizzavona; whilst far from welcoming it did have a well stocked shop.
Almost every day arriving at camp we were physically beat up, significantly more so after the half dozen double stage days.
The GR20 is more than an adventure – worthy of its claim to being Europes toughest? Definitely a candidate!
Dates
September 5th – 18th 2026
Resources
La Vélodyssée
