Pacific Coast Highway with ‘Going Broke’

Beginning in Astoria on the northern coast of Oregon and ending in Morro Bay, 230 miles south of San Francisco, we were filled with visions of dramatic coastlines and cute little seaside towns so we loaded up ‘Going Broke’ and headed south. This was not going to be a direct route as we had plans to visit friends in Ashland, OR away from the coast, Crater Lake National Park, Napa wine country, and an extended weekend in San Francisco. The highlight was supposed to be the 123 mile stretch of road from Monterey to Morro Bay taking us completely out of our way, but hopefully living up to expectations!

Every mile was spectacular in its own way and we found the Californian Big Sur coastline with its exposed cliffs and big surf the most rugged and easily viewable from the road. Farther north there were more trees separating the road from the ocean, but with a bit of hiking access to all the picturesque coves and rocky arches was possible. Trying to follow road trip brochures ensured we were stopping every mile or so for yet another viewing platform or beach hike – at the rate we were initially going our arrival in San Francisco and eventually Morro Bay would have taken weeks. Being selective was the way to go and sooner or later one vista started to look just like the next, alongside Andrea’s frustration each time I pulled over to the side of the highway.

The highlights for us were the elephant seal colonies, the whale show we were lucky to experience, Monterey aquarium, and the sections of the highway farther south that weren’t shrouded in Pacific Coast fog! It seemed like the wildlife scattered along this amazingly scenic highway is in abundance, with large numbers in both ocean and air. We didn’t quite hit the right season for the large numbers of elephant seals but getting to see them at both Año Nuevo State Reserve and Piedras Blancas was a real treat – it would be great to return when the big males are in town, showing off their large proboscis, resembling an elephant’s trunk.

This entire coastline is also home to migrating humpback whales, which we were fortunate to see numerous times all the way from northern Oregon to Big Sur. On one specific occasion we noticed cars parked erratically along the road and people milling around on a hillside overlooking the ocean – of course we had to investigate. Thankfully we did as there must have been a dozen whales, alongside hundreds of pelicans and other sea birds, porpoises and seals, all participating in a feeding frenzy. Not sure what was below the surface but it sure must have been good as the whales were throwing themselves around a mere fifty yards from shore. It was a spectacle that could only have been surpassed if they were breaching, which incidentally I did get to see in Morro Bay but a long, long way off shore.

Redwood National Park
Giants living over 2000 years and rising up to 360 feet make this area of the northern Californian coastline home. It was fascinating to see these huge trees, looking like they were grown from a prehistoric era, towering above everything else around them. Initially thinking we would just drive straight through this park we are glad we didn’t as the drive along Avenue of the Giants was awe inspiring and the fatties loved the trail they got to explore along the ocean, warily passing by feisty male elks, and up some fun, albeit steep single-track.

San Francisco
Loved it, loved it, loved it – although accommodation was pricey, especially when you tag on $30-50 per night for car parking. Fortunately our hotel, Cow Hollow Motor Inn came with free parking, and being located in the Marina district made for only a ten minute walk to Fisherman’s Wharf and the waterfront. Meeting a group from Sacramento a few days prior was a blessing as it gave us a local’s insight into where to eat, drink and the best areas to visit, in fact we would love to run into them again, if only to thank them for their Bi-Rite Creamery recommendation – their salted caramel ice cream was to die for!

We found the city to be ideal for walking, even with its steep hills, especially along the various piers that make up the waterfront – the over touristy Fisherman’s Wharf made for a quick tour, and the packed Powell-Hyde trolley car was pleading to be ridden from Union Square, past the world’s crookedest street, ending back at the Wharf. Lucking out on last minute ticket to Alcatraz was for us the best part of our visit. The self guided tour through the US’s most notorious prison was a real eye opener, and something not to be missed.

If we both decide to take up city life somewhere then I think this would be hard to beat. They even host the yearly Escape from Alcatraz triathlon – what more could we want!