Did summiting Denali back in 2003 subconsciously set this somewhat crazy adventure into gear? I’ll never know but what I’m hoping is that this is the end, the finale, the completion, the conclusion, whatever… of bagging the highest point on all 50 states.

Oregon – Mt Hood
Elevation: 13,147′ / 4007m ● Summited: 19/8/24 at 10h27 ● Route: Up/ Down: Queens Canyon Mine Trail – Inyo National Forest

Probably the easiest of the 3 remaining summits and the one that gave me the most concern. Early July is not an ideal time nowadays to be marching up a big pile of rocks with potentially little snow holding all the rocks together and above zero temperatures! The closer our scheduled July 6th summit day came the more concerned I became, especially when the Mount Hood climbing rangers put out their final update on July 3rd stating that they are not recommending anyone going for the summit this season – far too much potential for rock fall 🙁 Now if I could keep that update from Andreas eyes we might still have a chance!

The Sunday morning 12:30am alarm call came, we quickly ate breakfast and left our Airbnb for the 50 minute drive to Timberline Lodge and ski resort at 1740m (the resort is the only one in the US to be skiable for 10 months of the year).

Penultimate US Highpoints

The 3 amigos happily posing from the top of Nevada. Slightly higher Montgomery Peak in California behind

Calm of an easy trail before the storm of scree

View from Boundary Peak summit

Montana – Granite Peak
Elevation: 12,799′ / 3901m ● Summited: 23/8/24 at 8h17 ● Route: Up/ Down: Lady of the Lake Trail via Southwest Ramp – Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

With a decision finally made we headed north out of a sweltering Las Vegas on the 13 hour trip to Montana, hopefully seeing the temperature drop en route. There was no rush as we expected to be able to make the almost 30 mile roundtrip hike in 2 days. This potentially easier route up what is known as the southern slope/ couloir would begin in the small Montana town of Cooke City, unlike a prior attempt where we headed across the miserable froze-to-death plateau after starting in Alpine, MT. After an overnight stop in Idaho we purchased an annual National Park pass at the West Yellowstone gate and lucked out with finding a site at the popular Canyon campground in the park. With the exception of bison our game drives were very mediocre, quite probably due to the massive amount of tourists! The following morning we drove on through to Cooke City.

We arrived in town to be told by the visitor centre that aggressive grizzly bear activity was a concern this year, the comment more than enough for us to drop $40 on a can of bear strength ‘pepper’ spray. This hike definitely reminded us of previous times spent in grizzly bear country!

We headed off up into the trees, loaded with camping gear, food for the 2 days, and an extra meal in case it look longer than anticipated. The trail would take us first to The Lady of the Lake, and after picking up Sky Top Creek we’d pass by many stunning lakes including Lone Elk Lake, Rough Lake, and into the Sky Top Lakes area where the plan was to hopefully find a flat campsite that would leave us with a reasonable summit day. Everything went to plan and with zero bear activity we set up camp with a clear view of the following days route. We’d made it over 800m vertical and 19 kms in distance. All we had to contend with now were the annoying, urine-greedy mountain goats.

Starting in the dark at 5:25am the first part of summit day was a bit awkward to follow but gained altitude steadily. A left turn took us into rockier terrain and an obvious route towards the southwest couloir. With some assistance from the 3 fixed ropes the steeper rock scrambling wasn’t a big deal and after a final bit of route finding we were on the summit of Granite Peak. It had taken us 2h50 with 711m of vert. With some careful route finding we made it back down  into the same couloir we had come up – the rest was a formality as we slid down scree and boulder hopped our way back to camp.

A quickly brewed cup of tea and we were reversing the long route we had come up less than 24 hours earlier. The trail was as picturesque, the lack of bears the same, the difference being the many kilometres that kicked our asses – we were very glad to arrive back at the car, another highpoint in the books!

What a panorama, taken halfway up the ascent of Granite Peak

An amazing morning for a highpoint

Granite Peak summit

Our picturesque campsite, the summit right of centre

These mountain goats just love the salts from our urine!

Texas – Guadalupe Peak
Elevation: 8,749′ / 2667m ● Summited: 27/8/24 at 18h08 ● Route: Up/ Down: Guadalupe Peak Trail – Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Located in Guadalupe Mountains National Park this highpoint was 100 miles from El Paso, Texas and pretty much on the border of New Mexico. The flight from Vegas was a bit over an hour and with an earlier than scheduled landing ensured that we would have just about enough daylight hours to at least make the summit of Texas. We collected the rental car and loosely drove along the US Mexico border, passing through a border post en route – have to assume that the El Paso/ Ciudad Juarez border is a very popular drug transit route!

The thunderstorm forecast was not good news and worse case scenario would have been to start early the following morning. As the sky had settled slightly we parked up at the Pine Springs park campsite, grabbed goretex jackets and camera and started out on the 13km round trip trail. With perfect temperatures (unlike the recent daily 100’F+) we marched on uphill knocking off the kilometres at a good pace. The trail was straightforward and not too rocky, similar to our home trails in Chamonix. Our Gaia app route had shown 1100m of ascent with 250m of descent, where fortunately the amount of downhill was a mere 20m, giving a comfortable 850m to the highest point. Blue skies would have been impressive but the stormy surroundings made for an impressive view too.

Almost 3h30 after setting off we were back at our rental car, just about out of daylight. This would be our final night camping on this trip, maybe even the final night of a bear encounter – guess we should have left some scraps of food out 🙂 The following morning we’d be driving a further hour to visit Carlsbad Caverns National Park, then back to El Paso for a night.

The caverns were well worth the visit, especially being in the much quieter height of summer. The brief 2 night trip finished with dirt cheap margaritas across the border at Kentucky Bar in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico and dinner at a very impressive L&J Cafe Mexican restaurant close to our airbnb.

Panorama of the summit of Texas, an 840 elevation gain from the trailhead

Guadalupe Peak, our third highpoint of this trip

An impressive cliff face on our descent

Louisiana – Driskill Mountain
Elevation: 535′ / 163m ● Summited: 29/8/24 at 18h58 ● Route: Up/ Down: Driskill Mountain Trail – Private Property

Stupid and ridiculous were words that sprung to mind when thinking about this US trip, especially this final 48 hours. From Dallas it was a 4h15 drive to Driskill, then 5h to Magazine, with a final 5h30 back to Dallas… and all for two 30 minute round trip walks! We should have bagged these years ago.

We arrived at the trailhead church parking lot in the rain around half hour before sunset. As this was on private land there was really only one trail up with a round trip of 2.5 kms and 60m elevation gain. Umbrella at the ready off we set, then 30 mins later we were back at the car, a little wet but glad the epic adventure was over!

We keep asking ourselves why we do this. Louisiana was a 15 minute hike to the top in the rain!

30 minute roundtrip, enough said!

Only Delaware and Florida are lower

Arkansas – Magazine Mountain
Elevation: 2,753′ / 839m ● Summited: 30/8/24 at 10h58 ● Route: Up/ Down: Signal Hill Trail – Ozark National Forest

The final highpoint of this penultimate adventure to tag the pinnacle of all 50 states. Although Magazine mountain sits at almost 840m asl it was still only a 20 minute easy walk to the summit with a whopping 50m of elevation gain!

We had driven for 3 hours the previous night to substantially reduce the 5 hour total from Louisiana’s Driskill mountain. This was a good plan as the final couple hours was a very winding road, eventually ending at lodge parking in Mount Magazine state park.

The short hike was all forested, the weather showing chances of rain, and signage indicating bears in the park. Would we see rain or bears; no and no! We did see the Arkansas state highpoint marker though. After signing the registry we took a slightly longer walk back down and began a 5 ½ hour drive back to Dallas.

Magazine Mountain/ Signal Hill is the highest point in Arkansas

Highpoint number 5 out of 5 on this US trip

We signed the register and claimed number 47

Mission accomplished, with 5 from 5 new state high points tagged. The remaining 3 in Oregon, Washington and Wyoming will have to wait until late spring 2025.

Camping

Backpacks
Tent
Sleeping bags
Sleeping mats
Sleeping bag liners
Pillows
Towels
Head torches
Coffee maker/ filters
Stove/ gas bottle (bought in US)
Pans
Bowls
Mugs
Spoons
Knife
Bear storage bag
Sitting mats

Clothing Wayne

Flip flops
Goretex jackets
Insulated jacket
Baseball cap
Long sleeved top
Tee-shirts
Boxer shorts
Socks

Food

Coffee, tea
Breakfasts x11 days
Snacks: trail mix, energy bars
Dinners x7 total

Personal

Trekking poles
Garmin inReach
Water purifier
Nalgene bottles
Suncream
Toothbrush & toothpaste
Soap
Power brick
Camera and lenses
Charging cables
Reading glasses
Sunglasses

Clothing Andrea

Harnesses (slings, rappel device…)
Rope
Helmets

Next Time!

No food cooking pouches

Transportation
A long drive north from Las Vegas and campsites in Yellowstone NP

Dates
August 19th – August 30th 2024

IMAGES
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